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The Interview

Alexis Nasard on transforming Swarovski into a modern ‘pop’ luxury brand 

30 December 2024 • by Stéphane J. G. Girod in The Interview

At Swarovski, CEO Alexis Nasard's leadership is a master class in how to establish brand attractiveness and provide clarity. He has maintained Swarovski's relevance, freshness, and solid position as a contemporary luxury...

Chief Executive Officer Alexis Nasard’s leadership at Swarovski is a masterclass in how to bring clarity and build brand desirability. By structuring product categories to occupy empty spaces in the market, doubling down on the added value of color and glamour, and reimagining customer experiences, he has kept Swarovski fresh, relevant, and firmly positioned as a modern luxury brand.

Alexis Nasard is no stranger to leadership. With over 30 years at industry giants like Procter & Gamble, HEINEKEN, Bata, and Kantar, he brought a wealth of experience to Swarovski. In just two years, he has steered the brand to a remarkable turnaround in 2023, outpacing the jewelry market and defying the luxury slowdown.

“For the last three years, we have been significantly outgrowing the jewelry market,” said Nasard – and it shows. Nasard led Swarovski back to profitability, reporting €1.83bn ($1.92bn) in 2023 revenues with growth across all business lines.

Under its current transformation strategy, LUXignite, Nasard and his artistic director, Giovanna Engelbert have repositioned Swarovski as a modern luxury brand, segmenting its three product categories by aligning them with distinctive pricing and styles to reach a broader audience.

Rather than following the luxury market trend of raising prices, he instead chose to structure the largest collection in the market to meet the needs of different customer tiers – from entry-level called “low complications” to bespoke “high complications” – emphasizing Swarovski’s vision of luxury as true value.

“It all depends on how you define “luxury,” he explained. “Our definition of “luxury” is not the stereotypical definition of excessively high prices, fake rarity, and haughty service. For us, luxury is ultimately providing true value to the customer.”

“Even if a customer is willing to pay €250,000 for a piece, she’s looking for value, like a Ferrari owner is also looking for value,” he continued. “Offering true value, giving a feeling of joy and a sentiment of self-worth. That’s what luxury should be about.”

We feel very strongly that a credible luxury brand should not only be a participant in the world of culture, it should be a protagonist.

Pop luxury: Occupying space in the jewelry landscape

A cornerstone of Swarovski’s LUXignite strategy is crafting major brand moments through flagship stores in key cities like New York, Milan, and Seoul, enhancing the customer experience through immersive retail. Store concepts like “WonderLux” and “Wonder Color,” which feature vibrantly colored surroundings, interactive displays, and plush furnishings, serve to bring more dimension to its brand universe, which Nasard believes is key to making Swarovski culturally relevant.

Being part of the cultural zeitgeist is what Swarovski wants to excel in, to remain not only true to its heritage of quality, creativity, and a unique savoir-faire, but also, to establish itself within popular culture and remain relevant to customers today. “We call ourselves a pop luxury brand,” said Nasard. “At no point in time are you going to think about Swarovski as a brand that is passé, old-fashioned, or requires de-dusting. It’s always fresh.”

It seems to have paid off. A traveling exhibition called Masters of Light, which takes its audience through the company’s evolution, and a one-year ambassadorship with the actress and singer Ariana Grande, who features in their latest campaign decked out in necklaces, a headband, bracelets, and earrings, represents a significant play for new audiences, building on its previous collaborations with celebrities Kim Kardashian and model Bella Hadid.

“We feel very strongly that a credible luxury brand should not only be a participant in the world of culture; it should also be a protagonist,” said Nasard. “Our participation and our protagonism in the cultural world affects social culture; the body positivity of Kim Kardashian, visual arts, music, stagecraft, fashion. We successively play in all these arenas today.”

More activations are expected to follow as Swarovski continues its repositioning – an approach Nasard calls “an unapologetic foray into the luxury world, affirming and declaring Swarovski as a luxury brand.”

Customer centricity also means digitizing

One area where Nasard is keen to explore further is AI, and how it can enhance the business in the most effective way, particularly when it comes to supporting its e-commerce channel, which now accounts for 20% of its sales. Swarovski already uses customer data analysis to test products, leverage insights, and communicate effectively with its customers.

But with AI, he wanted to ensure that what it chose to experiment with, made the most sense for Swarovski as a business. “What we have chosen to do is not use the easiest and most available functionalities, but focus on the functionalities that are most relevant and most congruent with our strategy,” he said. “For us, that is in the area of creativity. It’s really important. It’s a creative aid for us. It will never replace human creativity but as an aid, it can be precious. It’s also about strategic pricing.”

“It's really important to always repeat the important things. Repeat, repeat, repeat, at the point of boredom, to make sure everybody understands what you stand for and what the direction forward is.”

Building on the past to forge the present

One important lesson Nasard highlights is the importance of building on what has been done, noting the need to understand the context in which previous decisions were made. “Learn from them and avoid reapplying them in a new environment if they are not re-applicable,” he said. “And if they are re-applicable, take it with humility. There is nothing wrong in piggybacking on intelligent people’s work.”

When Nasard first arrived at Swarovski, in the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic, it had undergone a series of radical strategic shifts which left the company in a fragile position. “We had a lot of challenges when I took over,” noted Nasard. “For any business, it fragilizes a company, it fragilizes a brand, and sometimes it creates confusion within the organization.”

“None of the strategies were fundamentally wrong,” he continued. “The problem with them is that they were often imbalanced, a little bit extreme, and from one to the other, the shifts in themselves were damaging. So, when we came up with the LUXignite strategy in 2022, we proudly borrowed some of the themes that were in these previous strategies which made a lot of sense.”

“The challenge with LUXignite is to do it on our own terms. Because we’re not interested in aping anybody in the way we define luxury, or we execute luxury,” said Nasard. Nor is he against building on or borrowing from its previous strategies such as Created Diamonds, a new jewelry collection that uses lab-grown diamonds.

“I was not the one who invented it, it was already in one of the previous strategies,” he said of Created Diamonds. “What my administration has done is to organize it, codify it, and expand it. We added some new concepts, which is the focus on top cities. This is where culture is created and trends are made; you must be present there if you want to be culturally influential as a brand.”

Lessons in leadership

While every company that he worked for has been different, what Nasard has learned is how important it is for a CEO to define their business. “It sounds trivial, but you’d be amazed (at) how flawed definitions of businesses can lead to value destruction,” he said.

It is also important to be aware of the impact that a leader can have on those around them, and that the burden of every company decision is carried on their shoulders. “I still remember these (first) few months quite vividly,” he recalled of his first outing as a CEO at Bata. “You must be cognizant that everybody’s staring at you. Everybody’s staring at you, everybody’s hanging on your lips, and everybody’s interpreting everything you do. You need to live as if you have a camera attached to your shoulder all the time. The buck stops with you.

“What does that mean? It means everything good that happens, you take credit for, even if you are not even aware of some of them. And everything bad that happens is your fault. Anything. So, that’s a big burden for many people, and you must be aware of that.”

Communication is another key point for Nasard is ensuring that information is clearly conveyed multiple times. “Communication for a CEO is at least a quarter of the job,” he said. “Communicating with all stakeholders, customers, communities, shareholders, employees, and partners. You are the representative of the company, and you should keep all communication channels open.”

“The last thing I would say is, as the ancient Romans said, to repeat is virtuous. People are subjected to a lot of information every day from different quarters. It’s really important to always repeat the important things. Repeat, repeat, repeat, at the point of boredom, to make sure everybody understands what you stand for and what the direction forward is.”

Being alert to what's happening in the market is important. We need to maintain that agility without falling into what I call mosquito management, which is running to the next source of light.

Diligence with measure

At a time when big luxury brands are facing more challenges, Nasard believes that CEOs need to be measured in their approach.

“We are living in a permacrisis,” noted Nasard. “We live in very turbulent times. Now what is really important is what I call diligence with measure. We have to be aware; we have to be diligent but with measure.”

“We stay clear of exaggerations and caricatures,” he said of his decision not to jump in the quiet luxury trend. “We’ve never been that and we never will be that. We wouldn’t even be credible at playing that game and we wouldn’t be good at it either. So that’s what I call ‘strategic fortitude’ – sticking to the things you stand for.”

“Tactically, you must stay agile,” he added. “Being alert to what’s happening in the market is important. We need to maintain that agility without falling into what I call mosquito management, which is running to the next source of light. Otherwise, that creates more confusion than anything else.”

Looking ahead, Nasard sees the company’s long-term value in the diversity of its products.

“We believe our wide price palette talks to a wide variety of customers, regardless of what their wealth level is or their willingness to spend on the categories. We believe it’s one of the characteristics of the brand and we intend to stick to that,” said Nasard.

“We’re always extremely cognizant of the fact that we always need to provide the customer with compelling value. No customer buys anything thinking they are making an unintelligent purchase. That does not exist. Everybody, rightly or wrongly, thinks they’re making an intelligent purchase, and we want to make sure we nurture that.”

Expert

Alexis Nasard

CEO, Swarovski

Alexis Nasard has extensive leadership expertise and experience in senior positions with large global companies. He is the CEO of Swarovski and the former CEO of Kantar and Bata.

He previously held a broad range of leadership roles with Heineken including Global Chief Marketing Officer and President of Europe

Authors

Stéphane J. G. Girod

Professor of Strategy and Organizational Innovation

Stéphane J.G. Girod is Professor of Strategy and Organizational Innovation at IMD. His research, teaching and consulting interests center around agility at the strategy, organizational and leadership levels in response to disruption. At IMD, he is also Program Director of Reinventing Luxury Lab and Program Co-Director of Leading Digital Execution.

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