Two companies jumped out in fashion: the luxury brand that went through “thoughtful expansion” to reinforce its strengths while building for the future and the famous sneaker brand that lost its way. Let’s take the latter first. The fall of Nike from first to fourth place in our ranking serves as a cautionary tale of what happens when companies don’t quite get the balance right between managing the present and looking ahead. In its rush to reinvent itself and embrace direct-to-consumer sales, Nike strayed from its core performance-focused identity. As the US giant, under recently departed CEO John Donahoe, had shifted its focus to online sales, it began pulling back from traditional retail partnerships with outlets like Foot Locker, DSW, and Urban Outfitters. Independent shops, skater stores, and small boutiques that had long been the arbiters of what was cool in youth culture were also cut out of the equation.
Straying too far from the core
The short-term results from this pivot during the pandemic and up until 2023 were great for sales, but they left a vacuum that Nike’s competitors were all too happy to fill. Brands like On, Hoka, adidas, and New Balance snapped up the shelf space Nike left behind, quickly gaining traction with customers who had once been Nike loyalists.
The shift in strategy was about more than distribution. Internally, Donahoe had leaned heavily on efficiency at the expense of creativity. He eliminated some product categories, organizing them by gender rather than sport. This diluted the brand’s expertise in areas like basketball, tennis, and track and field, again leaving room for competitors to fill the gaps. Nike products began to feel more generic and less cutting-edge, and its marketing lost some of its spark. Once known for powerful, emotive storytelling, the brand moved toward a more data-driven, analytical approach.
Thoughtfulness is key when it comes to future-readiness. That’s how Hermès achieved a perfect score in this year’s indicator. While other luxury brands raced to embrace digital strategies and aggressive growth, Hermès chose “thoughtful expansion”, prioritizing cultural relevance over rapid scaling up. LVMH followed a similar path to claim the second spot, demonstrating that, in luxury, slower can indeed mean smarter. Both brands diversified away from China ahead of others while focusing on creating local relevance and redefining what the crucial luxury concepts of exclusivity and prestige mean, even for Generation Z.
This pattern of thoughtful restraint yielding superior results wasn’t limited to fashion – it’s one of the big pan-industry takeaways of 2024. In pharmaceuticals, Roche’s rise to the top spot, with a perfect score, reflects a similar philosophy. While the pharma industry buzzed with excitement over mRNA vaccines and quick wins, Roche maintained a balanced approach to innovation, avoiding the trap that ensnared Pfizer – the risk of over-promising on new technologies. Managing investor expectations while meaningfully scaling new treatment areas has become crucial for success.